Some shots from a recent adventure...
And I've lost my fair share...Chasing waves is an addiction...when you score its the best thing ever and when you don't its to be honest the most frustrating hobby...but you just want to keep going until that day comes when you score again. Seeing a swell and Driving for 6 hours and having 45mins of seedy sleep in your mates commodore wagon with the seat layed back in hope of scoring some pits is a fairly shitty thing to do, I have done it quite a few times and when you don't score... its fairly crushing...you end up driving around all day looking for waves only to surf a crappy beach break and drive 6 hours back home wrecked and then your back at work hating life. This has happened way too often for my liking so this road trip was and had to be different...I know nothing is guaranteed but the forecast looked excellent so I was pumped and certain we would score some road pits... surely we would have a win...at least one?
So we made the trip...5 of us. 3 in one car, 2 in the other... Turning up at dawn with our froth levels high we checked a break and it wasn't the right swell direction so we moved on still buzzing as we knew somewhere would be pumping as there was lots of swell. We checked another break I had heard a lot about and it didn't look so good but my 'mangrommet' mate Jules was pretty keen to paddle out to check it out, I didn't want to spend the day negging out driving around so I joined him, the other boys decided to watch from land and eventually bailed on it to check another wave up north...we joked on the way out about it turning on when we got out there and having it to ourselves...that it did, such a fun surf...
My good mate Jules is such a frother... Friday,we shared 3 hours of fun waves... just the two of us with no one else out...I didn't think that happened anymore.
So after our session we called the boys up...Drove north...the breaks were no good... and they got stuck in traffic for a hour or so on the way back...hard luck
Saturdays forecast looked pretty impressive...we were all pumped...a couple of beers at the local pub and an early night was on the cards. All went to plan except we were woken by another 'Mangrommet' at 11pm who decided to drive to meet us for the Saturday session by the name of Chesh to shoot some photos. Good times were to be had... Saturdays frames
All in all...a win
We have been doing some work for Project Bodyboards recently. Working with Glenn Taylor from Project Bodyboards we have put together a clip outlining core and stringer selection when choosing a board. It can be confusing so we put the clip together as a basic education tool. It should be hitting the world wide web shortly.
https://flic.kr/p/n8HAGZ Its refreshing to be able to score some waves from time to time. Breaking up the daily grind with some salt is always a good time.
Getting out on a clear night to shoot some photos is something I like to do. Just for fun.
We are currently putting some finishing touches on a clip we have been working on with Glenn Taylor of Project Bodyboards about stringer and core selection on a bodyboard. A lot goes into developing bodyboards these days so if your looking for a new board or just into surf riding craft be sure to keep an eye out for this one. Here we have a frame grab of Glenn putting a rail on a new custom board.
Always a bit of fun when the summer surf blues kick in...happy new year
We recently returned from a trip to the jungle on the Indonesian island of Java. On a quest for some warm tropical waves we managed to score 11 out of 11 days of surf. In combination with the amazing scenery, we all experienced some authentic indonesian culture and cuisine, which made this one of our most satisfying trips to date.
Thanks to Rod at Indoecosurf for the great hospitality.
We will be editing a clip for you to see of our journey in the coming weeks. Stay Tuned!
What an epic trip. We couldn't have timed our stay better. This 12-15ft swell is well documented but the photos and videos really just dont do it justice. The raw power and intensity of Teahupoo when she is in full force is an incredible experience.
Teahupoo is treating us well. A late afternoon empty shown here somehow snuck through.We have had some fun waves & it is going to get a lot more serious in the coming days. The locals friendly relaxed vibe plus the beautiful landscape of French Polynesia has already made this one of my favourite surf trips thus far.