And I've lost my fair share...Chasing waves is an addiction...when you score its the best thing ever and when you don't its to be honest the most frustrating hobby...but you just want to keep going until that day comes when you score again. Seeing a swell and Driving for 6 hours and having 45mins of seedy sleep in your mates commodore wagon with the seat layed back in hope of scoring some pits is a fairly shitty thing to do, I have done it quite a few times and when you don't score... its fairly crushing...you end up driving around all day looking for waves only to surf a crappy beach break and drive 6 hours back home wrecked and then your back at work hating life. This has happened way too often for my liking so this road trip was and had to be different...I know nothing is guaranteed but the forecast looked excellent so I was pumped and certain we would score some road pits... surely we would have a win...at least one?
So we made the trip...5 of us. 3 in one car, 2 in the other... Turning up at dawn with our froth levels high we checked a break and it wasn't the right swell direction so we moved on still buzzing as we knew somewhere would be pumping as there was lots of swell. We checked another break I had heard a lot about and it didn't look so good but my 'mangrommet' mate Jules was pretty keen to paddle out to check it out, I didn't want to spend the day negging out driving around so I joined him, the other boys decided to watch from land and eventually bailed on it to check another wave up north...we joked on the way out about it turning on when we got out there and having it to ourselves...that it did, such a fun surf...
My good mate Jules is such a frother... Friday,we shared 3 hours of fun waves... just the two of us with no one else out...I didn't think that happened anymore.
So after our session we called the boys up...Drove north...the breaks were no good... and they got stuck in traffic for a hour or so on the way back...hard luck
Saturdays forecast looked pretty impressive...we were all pumped...a couple of beers at the local pub and an early night was on the cards. All went to plan except we were woken by another 'Mangrommet' at 11pm who decided to drive to meet us for the Saturday session by the name of Chesh to shoot some photos. Good times were to be had... Saturdays frames
All in all...a win